Japanese restaurant in West University Place assembles indulgent bowls of ramen without the upcharges.

2518 W Holcombe Blvd, Houston, TX 77030
(346) 204-5523
Website

11AM–9:30PM Mon–Thu; 11AM–10PM Fri; 12PM–10PM Sat; 12PM–9PM Sun

“Spicy mild or spicy hot?” asked our waitress. One of us had ordered the non-regulation version of the tonkatsu ramen at Tamashi, a popular Japanese restaurant sharing space in the same West University strip mall as the rising superstar Hu’s Cooking. When we confirmed “spicy hot,” the waitress issued us a slight warning but that only fanned our hopes for a close encounter with capsicum. For our second order of ramen, we did take her recommendation of Tamashi’s menn, a specialty of the house featuring shrimp broth. In short order, two steaming bowls emerged from the kitchen and we put our soup-hungry senses to work.

Spicy tonkatsu ramen ($9.50). Our waitress was not kidding: the spicy (hot) tonkatsu ramen arrived with a light-catching slick of chili oil. While this soup does pack a sinus-clearing punch, it is nothing the average spice hound couldn’t withstand. The bowl comes standard with two fatty pieces of bacony chashu (braised pork belly) and a soft-boiled egg half, as well as black fungus, bamboo shoots, green onions, and the obligatory fish cakes. Tamashi’s noodles are thin and al dente, capable of keeping their structure to the end. The torrents of chili make a nice complement to the rich broth, milky from the patient extraction of pork bone. Without a doubt, this ramen holds its own. Tamashi could upcharge for the spicy add-in, but they absorb that cost, letting the customer get away with spending under $10 before tax and tip.

Tamashi’s menn ($9.75). The canvas for this out-of-the-norm ramen bowl is shrimp broth. In a word, this soup is the dictionary definition of savory. The base is not subtle at all; due to its briny concentration of shellfish and brown flavors, every spoonful asserts itself. This broth does not tune itself out, even after you have had numerous mouthfuls and are nearing the dreaded bottom of the bowl. Along with the other garnishes in the tonkatsu ramen—including the egg, both slices of chashu, and a nest of caramelized onions—the tamashi’s menn comes with a shrimp skewer. If you fancy five tender, medium-sized shrimp with your ramen, it is a no-brainer spending an extra quarter compared to the price of the tonkatsu—that’s a nickel per shellfish! Again, we lift our bowls to Tamashi’s generosity.

Most ramen fans would agree that Tamashi not only brings something original to Houston’s ramen scene; they offer a deal that is more than fair. With two other locations in Spring Branch and Oak Forest, Tamashi has a full menu with appetizers and sushi. Maybe we will try some of that next time, but it will be a task tempting us away from the ramen.