A strip-mall restaurant on the north side of Houston serves up flavor-packed Thai and Lao specialties, including boat noodles and larb.

13420 TX-249, Houston, TX 77086
(832) 617-5803
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11AM–9PM Thu–Tue (closed Wednesday)

This review is long overdue. We first visited Banh Somtum last December after collecting a relative from Bush Airport, and since then we have periodically made the long trek to the north side of town just to bring friends to try the Thai and Lao selections at this small, inviting restaurant. The dishes tend to be either excellent versions of familiar staples like larb or not commonly found on Houston-area menus. Aside from unusual items like boat noodles, what stands out on the menu are all the pepper icons. Beside the names of different dishes parade Thai chilies numbered 0–5 and fanning out in a green-to-red gradation, meaning diners must decide their own spicy fate. Since the transitory thrill of fiery foods wins over long-term consequences, we usually venture into the exciting, but not too regrettable range of 4–5 chiles.

Thai Boat Noodles ($8.50). Submerging rice noodles and various meats in a seasoned beef broth, this dish resembles a Thai version of phở, but in this case appearances are deceiving. When ordering, you have a choice of thick or thin rice noodles, and light or dark broth. We decided on thin noodles, which a waiter confirmed are the same ones commonly known as bánh phở, and the dark broth. Enriched with pork blood, the dark soup base is light years away from phở. When a spoonful of this Thai soup hits the tongue, nearly every tastebud is jolted awake—sour, sweet, salty, umami. And as you continue to slurp, the heat of the chili flakes builds, whipping up the carnival on your palate. Highly varied in texture and flavor, the soup includes strips of tender beef, honeycomb tripe, meatballs, crispy chicharon, Asian broccoli, chopped cilantro, green onion, and fried shallots. This noodle soup is flat-out awesome and unlike anything we have ever tried.

Larb with beef ($8.50). A classic Lao cold meat salad, Banh Somtum’s rendition of beef larb is made with cooked beef and tripe tossed with cilantro, mint, green onions, and keffir lime leaves and topped with roasted rice powder. Like the boat noodles, this larb hits you immediately on all fronts: fresh, herbaceous, acidic, and spicy. After the flames begin picking up, the fresh cucumber slices and lettuce leaves become a cool oasis. This is one of the best versions of this dish that we’ve personally tasted.

Larb with chicken ($8.50). If you abstain from eating beef or don’t savor tripe, the chicken larb is just as delicious (Banh Somtum’s was more to our taste than the same dish served at Nara Express). Unlike the beef version, the chicken larb came studded with small, fiery red chiles.

Lao sausage and sticky rice ($6.00). Lao sausage is made with pork and flavored with lemongrass, infusing the ground meat and fat with an herbal zest. The accompanying sticky rice is wrapped in a plastic baggie tucked inside a mini woven basket. Pinch off a piece of the glutinous rice ball, marry it to a sausage slice, and dredge it in the sweet and sour, chutney-like sauce, which is tomato-based but also flavored with chiles, garlic, white pepper, and vinegar. This appetizer never fails to disappear quickly from our table.

Green curry fried rice with chicken ($7.75). Normally, we avoid ordering fried rice in restaurants (although we make it at home all the time), but Banh Somtum is a major exception to this rule. This spicy, curry-infused rice includes Thai eggplant, orange bell pepper, broccoli, carrots, and is garnished with chopped herbs and cucumber slices. We also detect the distinct flavor of kaffir lime leaves.

We unreservedly adore Banh Somtum and its menu of dishes lovingly packed with explosive flavors, and think most people who love Thai and Lao food will feel the same way. And if you accidentally end up here on a Wednesday, the only day they are closed, or just want to do a larb taste-off (as we ourselves recently did), try the equally delicious Aim Thai located nearby.